Author Archives: Phil Brennan

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    Silent Night – the story of the Christmas Peace Truce

    Christmas time has its own magical allure. The lights, the gifts, the music, the myriad of sporting spectacles beamed live to our sitting rooms, the gatherings among family and friends, the scent of the turkey roasting in the oven, the frenzied shopping, the carnival atmosphere in town; all combine to create something uniquely festive that eases us almost unknowingly through the dreariness of the Irish winter. Now, as the year rolls to a close, a faint glow makes its presence felt. The star still shines, oft’ hidden and unnoticed, to light the way.

    ‘Silent Night’ carries us back to where it all began. The poignant lilt of harmonies along with unadorned lyrics draw us deeper into the wonder of the Christmas story. This age-old carol has the power to stop us in our tracks. I’ve seen an elderly woman in a coma in a nursing home momentarily re-awaken and join us in song, noticed hardened men drawn to a space they thought they had left behind, viewed children by the crib transported on a musical odyssey back to the manger in Bethlehem, watched a homeless woman cradle the infant child while the warm, lingering lyrics from carol singers close by took on a meaning only she knew.

    Christmas without ‘Silent Night’ would feel incomplete. The origin of this timeless carol is worth remembering. In 1818, a roving band of actors was performing in towns throughout the Austrian Alps. On December 23rd, they arrived at Oberndorf, a village near Salzburg, where they were to re-enact the story of Christ’s birth in the small Church of St. Nicholas. Given that the church organ was out of commission and would not be repaired before Christmas, the actors decided to present their version of the Christmas story in a private home.

    One of audience, assistant pastor Josef Mohr, was inspired to reflect anew on the meaning of Christmas. Instead of walking straight to his house that night, Mohr took a longer way home. His fateful Camino took him up over a hill overlooking the village. He stopped to survey the peaceful, snow-drenched citadel of light below. Reveling in the majestic silence of the wintry night, Mohr gazed down at the glowing Christmas card-like scene. Time past and present froze in creative fusion. He intuitively adapted a poem he had written years previously to the play he had just seen.

    Mohr enlisted the help of his friend, church organist Franz Xaver Gruber, to compose a musical setting for the poem that could sound well even without the church organ. Within hours they both sung ‘Stille Nacht’ at their Christmas Eve service before the small congregation in Oberndorf with the accompaniment of a guitar. It was beautifully understated, magical.

    Christmas 1914 on the battlefields of Messines brings us face to face with the power of this simple carol. Picture the scene. Young men and boys sunk in the blemished mud of Flemish and French trenches, ears reverberating to the terrifying sounds of shells exploding before them with a deafening defiance – scarcely imaginable to spectators from afar. Germans on one side; the French, British and Irish on the other. Between them, ‘no man’s land’ littered with the spoils of war, a sordid premonition of the fate in store for up to 13,000 soldiers a day.

    Yet, amidst the chaos, hope simmered fleetingly on the horizon. The German soldiers were sent Christmas trees from home and placed them above their trenches, numbing the oppressive doom that enveloped them. A strange confluence of dark and light rose from the shadowy mire. The luminous trail extended for miles, a seamless halo from afar that transfigured the wretched landscape. The soldiers were moved. They remembered their loved ones back home.

    They momentarily forgot where they were. And then the German tenor sang ‘Stille Nacht’. Soldiers from both sides fearlessly opted to leave the relative sanctuary of the trenches and embraced their ‘foe’ as their own. Stories were told, cigarettes smoked, brandy consumed, even a football match was played. Once hostile voices merged as one in common humanity.

    A young British soldier, Albert Moren, near La Chapelle D’Armentieres, France, recalled: “It was a beautiful moonlit night, frost on the ground, white almost everywhere; and… there was a lot of commotion in the German trenches and then there were those lights – I don’t know what they were. And then they sang ‘Stille Nacht’ – ‘Silent Night’. I shall never forget it. It was one of the highlights of my life.”

    Against the bleakest of backdrops, a spark was lit and the shroud lifted. Humanity had become participants in the nativity story 1914 years on revealing the face of the infant Jesus to the world. Their song echoes in the stillness of the night. Hidden in the silhouette, their hushed murmurings can still be heard. It is then they realised only kindness really matters. Echoes from afar whisper softly through veiled skies. The men of 1914 did not just remember the first Christmas; they lived out its meaning.

    I was privileged to travel to Messines in December 2014 with The Peace Choir to pay homage in song to the young men of the Christmas Truce on the 100th anniversary. It was deeply humbling to see the graves of two Irishmen side by side in one of the tiny cemeteries scattered across the furrowed fields. On one headstone: 24th of December 1914, Private Delaney; on the other, 29th of December 1914, Private Murphy. In between… the Christmas Truce. Something timeless spilled out onto the battlefield that silent night that must never be forgotten.

    The star shines down on a still broken world. War continues to wreak agonising torment on innocent civilians in places like Gaza and Ukraine and tinge their once sacred lands beyond all recognition. Surely now is the hour to re-claim the spirit of the Christmas Truce. The heroism of the young men of 1914 happened through small, microscopic moments of human solidarity beyond the glare of their unknowing masters; a soccer match, broken bread, shared stories… this silent night echoed deeply. They have handed down their song for us to sing. Only then can they sleep in heavenly peace.

    Phil and Elaine would like to wish you all a very happy and peaceful Christmas. The Peace Choir along with our friends in the Dublin High Hopes Choir will lead the ‘Christmas Truce Vigil’ in St Michael’s Church, Gorey on Saturday December 16th and in the Edmund Rice Chapel, Waterford on Friday December 22nd – both from 8-9.30pm. All are welcome!

    For more information on our Celtic Ways Ireland tour offerings for 2024, please check out www.celticwaysireland.com or email us directly on info@celticwaysireland.com

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    That’s a wrap for 2023…what our visitors have to say!

    It’s good to take that leap into the unknown. You’re not quite sure where you’ll land, yet you sense all will be well. Nature has a way of reassuring you when you need it most. You’ve got to trust the life force that has guided you along the way. We’re 7 years into our adventure with Waterford Camino Tours yet it feels like a new, as of yet untrodden pathway, is opening up before us. We’ll need the elements to smile favourably on us as we make the transition. Celtic Ways Ireland feels like it has been destined to be from the start. The universe has led us this far…it will not let us down!

    We estimate we’ve led in excess of 1,000 people along age-old trails since we started out. No two journeys are the same. Everyone you share the path leaves their own imprint in the land… each with their own wisdom, their sense of fun, their indomnitible courage, their love of the great outdoors. It is they who have been our guide, who have nudged us gently out in the direction of where we need to be. It is they who have inspired us to dare to dream and believe in the opportunities this moment presents.

    Our Celtic Ways Ireland builds on all that has gone before. The pathway may change but the journey stays the same. We invite our visitor to enjoy all that this corner of Ireland’s Ancient East has to offer; a mystical walk by the water’s edge of Bannow Bay in South Wexford, an age-old pilgrim path out to St Mullins in Carlow, a boat trip in Dunmore East or Greenway cycle in Waterford, the enchanting Derrybawn Loop in Glendalough… each inviting us deeper into the soul of our Celtic past. All that has shaped us lies around us. This discovery starts with one single step.

    St Declan’s Way has been and will always be our signature Camino experience in Ireland. Over the past few years, we have led 18 groups from Ireland and beyond on this 1,500 year old pilgrim trail. We’ve learned from our fellow travellers and adapted our programme to reflect what works best for everyone. These are some of the reviews we’ve received for our St Declan’s Way Camino in 2023…

    Take the plunge and go – you won’t regret it! Phil and Elaine Brennan are wonderful human beings and superb owner/operators of Waterford Camino Tours – soon to be known as Celtic Ways Ireland. The St Declan’s Way walking tour strikes a perfect blend of camaraderie, exercise and relaxation, fun and laughter, reflection and serenity, and learning. If your likes include music and singing, history, and nature…you shall be rewarded!

    I went on the tour to reunite with a group of friends living across the US. That alone would have made this a special time, but thanks to Phil and Elaine, it was much more. They handled logistics with ease and flexibility, and are clearly experienced and prepared. Our entire group loved the hand-picked local experts they brought in to spend time with us along the way. The team’s passion and knowledge about the significance of the route, and, more generally, Irish history and culture shone through. However, what really set the tour apart was Phil and Elaine’s genuine interest in each person, and their personalized efforts to make the tour fun, meaningful and memorable for all. They also took initiative to assist me and others to prepare for other parts of our stay in Ireland – above and beyond the call of duty! Thank you!
    (Jeanna Holtz, USA)

    I am still in awe of my experience walking ‘The Way of St Declan’. All the walking, laughter, meditating, and singing created an atmosphere of camaraderie and lasting friendships. Phil is the ultimate tour director. My husband wanted to join me but not to walk – just fish. Phil connected him with the experts in the area and off we went to Ireland. Phil and Elaine are exemplary tour partners who demonstrate their love of the profession.
    (Mary Andrulewicz, USA)

    I completed the Camino St Declan’s Way with a group of 15 other people. I arrived with no great expectations of the walk other than I’d get some exercise and fresh air! It turns out Dr Phil and Elaine had organised pretty much every detail of the trip down to my Gluten free sandwiches. They were with us all the way and had some extra local guides to add a deeper experience to our days. The weather was “mixed” as they say but it didn’t impinge in our enjoyment of the Camino. Some of the days were challenging but we got through them and felt a real sense of achievement on completing them. The group got on well and we had many good laughs along the way. Overall, I would recommend this trip as everything is done for you (except the walking), just turn up and get stuck in, you won’t regret it!
    (Marian Brady, Galway)

    If I could leave a million stars I would! Not usually one for tours or guided anything, I typically prefer to explore on vacations in private, but we were after something specific in looking for a walking experience of Ireland this time, and I could not imagine a better trip! Everything was so personalized, thoughtful, tactful and authentic. Plenty of options, no pressure, to give everyone a chance to get what they want out of their trip. We most enjoyed our interactions with the various local guides and individuals we met, hearing about the history as we went along, but in a way that was relaxed and easy. Phil and Elaine are the most attentive, wonderful hosts – the care and thought they provided at every step is unmatched – I would recommend this trip to anyone and everyone! Every good wish to them both with Celtic Ways Ireland.
    (Alana Clapp, USA)

    We had a wonderful experience with Phil and Elaine hiking/walking the St Declan’s Way Camino. Not only were the scenery and sites beautiful and rich with history, but we had amazing chemistry with the others on the trip. Credit to Phil for fostering and leading the group to create an atmosphere which was like we had all been friends for years. From the addition of local guides to add their interesting stories to the many enjoyable surprises throughout the week (e.g. after dinner singing, spiritual moments and music, welcoming us to their home for homemade scones and biscuits, a personal send off for each of us on our last night, etc) made this trip enjoyable from beginning to end. Phil and Elaine sought out feedback from each person many times a day to ensure everyone was not just good but “happy”, and made immediate adjustments based on what the group wanted to do most. Overall, a very special memorable experience with a great mix of active exercise (walking), rich Irish history, beautiful scenery, charming cafes and best of all, many new friends and lots of laughing!
    (Wendy Cook, USA)

    WOW run don’t walk (you can walk when you get there) to Waterford Camino Tours soon to be known as Celtic Ways Ireland! Phil and Elaine are truly the best. Every need we had, every desire we sought, every moment was fulfilled to the highest level. Not to mention the fun we had every day. They are the complete package of knowledge, joy and comfort. You will feel completely taken care of if you join Phil and Elaine on ANY tour! I am still reeling with the memories of each day’s highlights. The special surprise guests throughout the tour made it perfect. They will make your vacation one of the best. I truly cannot say enough about my wonderful experience.
    (Missy Radcliffe, USA)

    So happy to have completed St Declan’s Way with the wonderful Waterford Camino Tours. Phil and Elaine made sure everyone’s expectations were met. The walking, the guides, the adventures along the way, the accommodation and the food were all fabulous. Even the weather obliged! Phil and Elaine work hard to make these walks special and it shows. Thanks also to Conor and all the other marvellous guides along the way. Highly recommended.
    (Dee Murphy, Dublin)

    Had a wonderful St. Declan’s Way in August 2023 with Waterford Camino Tours. Phil and Elaine were informative, enthusiastic, engaging and so much fun! They took care of our every need – we were well fed, stayed at incredible locations, and met the most amazing people along the way. They provided experiences on the trip that I will remember and cherish. I highly recommend them and I will not hesitate to contact their newly formed Celtic Ways Ireland for my next trip to Ireland from the United States.
    (Cindy Payne, USA)

    What an amazing week l had with you and everyone in the group! The walking was spectacular, to be honest l didn’t imagine myself walking an average of 17 kms a day, but you made it so easy and the company and stories were so good, l often forgot ..I must also mention the special guests along the way, Conor who l spent much time with! Mark, who l learned so much about the natural fauna along the sides of the track were just two. The attention to detail and care of the group made this Camino (my first) truly exceptional.
    Thank you with all my heart.
    (Racheli Wolfson, Israel)

    We are a family of 5, including 3 teenagers and wanted to do St Declan’s Way but were initially not considering using a tour company. We found this logistically difficult and going with Waterford Camino Tours was a great decision. They went out of their way to make sure it was a memorable experience for everyone in our group. We would use them again in a heartbeat.
    (Liam Garvey, Ethiopia)

    A very big thank you to Phil & Elaine (and Conor & others) for the wonderful Waterford Camino experience which I did in early May 2023. It was so good to get away from ‘everything’ and we were so well taken care of – nothing was left to chance and nothing was too much trouble. We finished on Friday afternoon in Ardmore in beautiful sunshine – a perfect end to the week.
    Go on, take the time out for yourself and do it. I’m glad I did!
    (Angela Hogan, Dublin)

    When you’ve the right companion on the journey, you’re home before you know it! We all need words of encouragement from time to time. No matter how strong or how assured you may be, there will be moments in life when everything does not flow as favourably as you would like. Read the signs and be ready to adapt. It’s amazing the power of a kind word. It can lift you up and help you to appreciate what matters most. We’ve been privileged to share the path with really sound people. They lead us in ways they do not even realise. For that we are truly grateful. Time now to take that leap!

    Dr Phil and Elaine will roll out our Celtic Ways Ireland tour offerings from Spring 2024. We tailor everything to suit our visitor from iconic walking trails to memorable cultural experiences to the best that Ireland has to offer in terms of food and accommodation. For further information on our Celtic adventure through Ireland’s Ancient East, check out www.celticwaysireland.com or email Phil and Elaine directly on info@celticwaysireland.com

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    Stepping stones to the new… Celtic Ways Ireland

    You build on failure. You use it as a stepping stone. Close the door on the past. You don’t try to forget the mistakes, but you don’t dwell on it. You don’t let it have any of your energy, or any of your time, or any of your space.
    Johnny Cash

    Sometimes in life you’ve just got to go for it. What awaits you will not be handed to you. It’s up to you and you alone to seize the initiative. Few know the sacrifices you’ve made to get this far. Onlookers never get to see from the inside; you do. Your mistakes do not define you. How you overcome them does! So, invest your energies wisely. This moment is the stepping stone to what you are destined for. Seize it lest the opportunities it presents pass you by.

    Waterford Camino Tours has taken us down a long and winding road since our inception nearly 7 years ago. We have arrived somewhere we would never have imagined when we started out. Looking back, all that has happened has nudged us in the direction of where we need to be. Those we shared the path with have been our guide. Last month, we were joined on St Declan’s Way by a man of Irish descent from Australia. Raymond is 86 years of age and managed to slot in his visit to Ireland in between chemo sessions back home. He made it all the way from Cashel to Ardmore, all 115km, and was fresh enough to take in the Cliff Walk when the Round Tower appeared on the horizon. Wherever the path leads, you need people alongside who know how to laugh and love no matter what life has thrown at them, who reveal the depths of resilience we all have to draw on when we need it most. Courage of this kind has no limits! Sometimes, you’ve just got to dig deep and drive on.

    It’s time now for us to take the next step and venture out into new frontiers. Over the coming months, our business will transition from Waterford Camino Tours to Celtic Ways Ireland allowing us to expand our portfolio of tour offerings beyond Waterford and craft bespoke Celtic-themed itineraries in the South East of Ireland and beyond aimed at the Irish diaspora around the world. Our signature St Declan’s Way Camino will remain; we’ll just widen the scope of our tour offerings to include shorter walks in mystical spaces around Ireland with a specific emphasis on the relatively undiscovered wonders of the South East.

    Times and conditions change so rapidly that we must keep our aim
    constantly focused on the future.
    Walt Disney

    Tourism as we know it is changing. Whilst there will always be a demand for the whistle stop coach tours around Ireland that move from one iconic tourist attraction to the next, there is a seismic shift happening in terms of what the new wave of visitors are looking for when they come here. What it means to holiday in Ireland is being re-defined before our eyes; less rush leaving more time for immersive experiences where the traveller stays in one location for a few days, exploring the attractions unique to that area before moving on to continue their adventure elsewhere on the Emerald Isle. In this business, it pays to anticipate and be ready. Standing still will leave you behind!

    Our interest lies in slow tempo trails that give people the space to go deeper into the beauty and the story of the places they pass along the way. Each day brings with it the opportunity for something totally different to what has gone before; a mountain trail one day, an old coastal pilgrim path another, a cliff walk, a kayak out to dimmed monastic ruins, even a cycle or a walk around the mystical scenic landscapes of Ireland. It pays to slow the pace down, to detox a little from all you’ve left behind, and return to that world all the better for what you have discovered. The great outdoors have a unique kind of magic; a way of easing us unknowingly into a space within ourselves we may not have known before.

    It helps if we have international partners to open up new markets for us. We’re delighted to be working with Brendan Vacations from Spring 2024 as we roll out our signature premium tour offerings to their clients from North America and Canada. Our ‘Greenway to the Falls’ and ‘Dunmore East – to the waters and the wild’ are days that leave the visitor wanting more. We look forward also to extending our partnership with Journeying UK, Tailor-Made Tours and Follow the Camino along signature pilgrim trails both sides of the Irish Sea. There’s a Celtic corridor of sorts that weaves it’s way through the South East and on over to Wales winding through pilgrim destinations like Glendalough, St Mullins, Ardmore and St David’s in Pembrokeshire. Celtic roots run deep in these parts.

    Our bespoke tours are tailored to suit our visitor. We listen to them and then draw on our expertise to craft a holiday experience unique to each new tour group. Some may want a little more adventure, others more time for those iconic cultural experiences in Ireland. As hosts, we leave no stone unturned in making sure everyone is happy. Every person matters! We offer a wide range of accommodation settings from our choice of country estates to the luxury of our selected spa hotels to the rustic magic of our chosen glamping pods in the countryside. Nothing better than a sumptuous meal in the evening to round off your perfect day… a real taste of Ireland.

    A wise old man once said that the secret of change is to focus all of your energy not on fighting the old, but on building the new. Socrates’ guiding light points the way today just as it did all those millennia ago. We’ve had to re-brand our entire business to reflect this transition to Celtic Ways Ireland from our website to our logo to our tour design to our social media platforms and to our range of itineraries. Right now, we’re somewhere ‘in-between’ where we once were with Waterford Camino Tours and where we aspire to being with Celtic Ways Ireland. It’s a twilight zone of sorts that will, in time, usher in the new dawn we’ve been working towards. We trust in the process, in the team we have around us, in the life force that makes all this possible.

    Change will not come if we wait for some other person or some other time.
    We are the ones we’ve been waiting for.
    We are the change that we seek.
    Barak Obama

    Over the past few years, we’ve kept our head down and put the time into perfecting the craft of designing tours and building up a library of experiences that visitors to Ireland can enjoy during their time here. The key has been getting out and about; walking the trails, meeting people on the ground who’ve been making magic happen in their place for years. We’ve loved the adventure. The South East has so much to offer. The potential is there… it’s just a case now of pulling the pieces together into unique tour offerings that will entice visitors to stay a little longer. It’s real, it’s alive, it’s waiting to happen!

    Waterford has been at the heart of our tours and will continue to be. From the stunning cliff path in Dunmore East, to the mesmerising beauty of the Copper Coast, to the quaint and magical town of Lismore to the allure of the Greenway as it rolls majestically from the city to Dungarvan, there’s an energy in the tourism arena here that will see it claim it’s rightful place at the heart of the tourism landscape in Ireland in years to come. It all comes down to re-claiming our cherished history as told in Waterford Treasures, House of Waterford and Mount Congreve Gardens to name but a few close to the city and connecting this story with the natural wonders of what the county has to offer. Waterford is uniquely positioned to appeal to the new wave of tourist – that traveller who wants to stay that bit longer, soak in the story and the music of the place, sample the finest of local cuisine, stay in beautiful places, and, above all, adventure out to the waters and the wild. Waterford has it all!

    The key to keeping the visitor in the one place over a few days is to tap into the eclectic mix of tourist attractions that the region has to offer. For this to work, it’s essential to widen the lens beyond traditional county boundaries. Dial in your compass at any point in the South East and you’re within an hours drive of stunning spaces with their own stories to tell. From Glendalough to St Mullins, Jerpoint to Tintern Abbey, this southern corner of Ireland offers beauty and mystery in abundance. Add in Kayaking at Baginbun Beach in South Wexford or along the River Barrow in Graignamanagh or extend your adventure across the Munster Vales and you’ve got all the ingredients you need to craft tours here that will be a match for anywhere on this island. It’s time to believe in all that this corner of Ireland’s Ancient East has to offer visitors from near and far. It’s time to join the dots!

    As you start to walk on the way, the way appears.
    Rumi

    The way will become clear as we walk it. The path may change but the journey stays the same. We’ve just got to trust our inner compass. It has led us this far, it will guide us the rest of the way home.

    Dr Phil and Elaine will roll out our Celtic Ways Ireland tour offerings from Spring 2024. We tailor everything to suit our visitor from iconic walking trails to memorable cultural experiences to the best that Ireland has to offer in terms of food and accommodation. For further information on our Celtic adventure through Ireland’s Ancient East, check out www.celticwaysireland.com or email Phil and Elaine directly on info@celticwaysireland.com

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    When the going gets tough!

    The Camino of life carries pain and joy in equal measure. One day, the sun is shining, the next a deluge. Life asks questions of you; out of nowhere it pushes you deeper into a space you may not have known before. Voices from afar remind you that the haze will lift and a whole new way will open up before you. You’ve just got to dial in on your tried and trusting coordinates and find the strength to keep going – one step at a time.

    Back in 2010, I saw things a little differently to how I do today. I lived life in the fast lane, taking on one challenge after another and rarely slowing down to find my bearings for life beyond business. Once on the treadmill, I moved at pace in feverish pursuit of my latest goal, running, running… running to standstill. My plan was to build a 7-Screen Cinema in my hometown of Gorey, sell it on to an operator and then turn my attention to developing the surrounding site into a very modern leisure amenity for the town. Everything was on track… well so I thought.

    A turbulent economic storm loomed on the horizon, almost unannounced. I could see the signs and desperately tried to sell before it wreaked its havoc. Within months, my site had devalued by over 3 million euro and I was left stranded with crippling debts that I could not sustain. I was powerless to withstand the torrent and felt buffeted about by life forces beyond my control. Everything I lived for at that time was being obliterated before my eyes. Not for the first time in life I had to ‘dig deep’. Not for the first time, the going got tough!

    The next few years were a nightmare; dealing with the banks, selling the cinema to an operator who dragged out the retention fees on the build due to me for 4 years, and ultimately parting with my own home in Waterford so that I could clear my debt and move on with my life. I could lie and pretend I found a strength from day one. I didn’t. It was a dark time. I was staring into an abyss from which there seemed no return. I slowly picked up the pieces.

    How we respond to those times when we’re tested most can make or break us. It can be easy to retreat, to withdraw into ourselves, to turn back. This time is your defining hour! The key is to keep believing in yourself especially when others may doubt you. We are made of the same stuff of the universe, stardust even, a creative force that endures to the last. The power you need lies within.

    Self-belief is everything. It’s not being cocky or over-assured. It’s something less tangible. It’s protecting that distinctive ‘spark’ that makes you the person you are regardless of what others say and do. You must always remember that you have something unique to you that your true friends will always see. Those who might ridicule you from afar or run for cover when you need them most, let them go. Bear them no bitterness or rancour. The composure you need to do this is not earned cheaply. Once you delve within, you discover that fragile light shining through the cracks. There’s a life force at play here, minding you, protecting you… near yet far, guiding you home.

    Your attitude will determine where you go from here. It can be easier to gravitate right back to the familiar and miss out on the opportunities this time presents. How strange that the nature of life is change, yet the nature of human beings is to resist change. If you’re not happy, re-set your bearings. If there’s something you’re itching to do, go out there and do it. Visualise, even dream, suspend your thinking for a while and allow your deepest instincts take over, draft a plan, then go for it. This first step, choosing a goal and sticking to it, changes everything. Choose wisely!

    Life reverberates to a new beat when we surrender to the unknown. The outdoors offer refuge beyond the reach of a busy world. No matter how great the torment, nature, in all its wild abandon, reminds us that all will be well. The oceans roll into shore with melodic ease as crimson skies unfurl the promise of a new day. A walk along the river bank, or stroll across the headland, or swim in the sea, or cycle on the Greenway, or trail along an ancient path… all have the power to re-connect you to source as if for the very first time. Nature’s way is the only way!

    Places of solitude and quiet connect us to source. We were never meant to heave from one target to the next at the speed of light. We need space to just breathe, to come to the well, to tune into the deeper melodic strains that make life worth living. We soon discover each note matters, we matter. Stillness calls us beyond ourselves in search of something deeper. Peace descends in the telepathic flights of the starlings as they make their way home.

    Everyone walks to their own rhythm on Camino. We always try to pace it so that no one is left behind. The Camino of life is no different. It’s the steps in between that matter most as we make our way. The destination… that can come later. Kindness is what carries us when our own spirits begin to wane. I’d always notice those who slow their own pace so as to make time for someone else. The beauty of this gesture lies in its simplicity; a quiet word of encouragement, an attentive ear, a willingness to pause and take a breather. Unheralded acts of human kindness have a power beyond what the eye can see. The road does not seem as long anymore!

    Always remember, you have a value beyond what the world can reach. No less than the trees and the stars, you have a right to be here. Reach out for your destiny but with a light hold on the reins. Allow space for the universe to intervene. We are stronger when we are part of something greater than ourselves.

    Dr Phil and Elaine are looking forward to rolling out our Celtic Ways Series in 2023 aimed at connecting iconic pilgrim walks and trails in Southern Ireland with the Way of St David along the Welsh coastline. Our May, July and September St Declan’s Way are now fully booked with places available for August (20th to 25th). Our next St David’s Way is in September (24th to 28th). Our Camino tour offerings include coach transfers, ferry crossing (where needed), accommodation, guest guides, packed lunches, evening meals, pilgrim passports, memorable cultural experiences. We tailor everything to suit you. For further information, check out www.waterfordcamino.com or email Phil and Elaine directly on info@waterfordcamino.com This marks our 70th blog since we started out in business together just over 6 years ago. Guess they capture the journey. Exciting plans to be announced in the months ahead.

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    Dunmore East on a Summer’s Day – our one-day Camino

    Every person needs to take one day away. A day when one consciously separates the past from the future… Each person deserves a day away in which no problems are confronted, no solutions searched for. Each of us needs to withdraw from the cares which will not withdraw from us… A day away acts as a spring tonic. It can dispel rancour, transform indecision, and renew the spirit.
    (Maya Angelou)

    It is not always easy to slow down in a world that moves at pace. The key to life is balance. Exertion without rest drains us to the core and dims our coordinates. We heave our way from one target to the next on the treadmill of life and rarely connect to source. We all need to press pause now and again and take a breather from the world. The great outdoors connects us to something deeper that might otherwise pass us by. Dunmore East has a mesmeric way of slowing the pulse right down. We walk in the steps of those who passed this way before – time for us to leave our footprints in the land.

    Headland trails, lobster pots, fishing, lunch out in the Bay – Dunmore East is the perfect ‘still zone’ to ease us back to where we belong. The Dunmore East Cliff Walk is perched above the village in silent homage to those who have passed this way for centuries. 200 years ago, young men from neighbouring Portally, Ballymacaw and Rathmoylan walked this very path to excavate boulders of rock from the cliff below as they sculpted the harbour we have today. Here, on the new footbridge beneath the cliff, we come face to face with curious remnants of a bygone time; footsteps, railings, carved rock – the railway line from the cliff to the harbour has all but disappeared. Faint strains echo through the citadel of stone to calm the stirrings of the passer by.

    It’s good to ease the pace and feel the ground beneath your feet, to calm the tempest of the mind and soak in the beauty that opens up before you. Energy ripples in symmetry with the dancing of the waves. What we observe leaves lasting imprints; the magical hues of the azure ocean as it laps onto the flat rocks, the languid majesty of the seal as it basks in the sun, the silhouette of Hook Lighthouse as it peers out through misty skies. In observing the waters stretch out to the distant horizon, we sense intuitively the merging of what is near with timeless echoes from afar.

    A trip out to sea on return to the harbour completes this experience. Time in ‘The Keltoi Warrior’ is precious time. Brendan takes us on a voyage of discovery, sharing anecdotes on the coves and sea caves, narrowing the lens to absorb the sublime beauty of the miniscule against the towering backdrop of the cliffs. After checking in on the lobster pots and maybe reeling in a mackerel or two, we anchor in at some quiet corner of the Bay. Lunch by the shoreline to the sound of waves lapping against the brow of the boat… it feels so good!

    Bless to us,
    The earth beneath our feet.
    Bless to us,
    The path whereon we go.
    Bless to us,
    The people whom we meet.

    You see it’s the unscripted moments that make life worth living – moments that happen in ways we least expect. Often it is the unlikely one we meet along the way who inspires in ways we could never imagine. Our Peace Choir joined us in Dunmore East last weekend. It was great to spend time among friends on this stunning coastal path. Along the way, we met a local man, John Aylward, who stopped to chat awhile and regale us with stories of this space by the sea he had come to love so well. In the field beside us, he pointed out a Mass Rock that people once gathered around during Penal Times. We chatted away for a few minutes, John as curious about our group and where we’d come from as we were of him. We sang a wee song for him – there was something in the time we shared that deserved to be honoured. Sometimes music speaks where words fail!

    Our individual story is just one melodic movement in the wider symphony of the universe. No matter how small or insignificant we may appear each one of us is part of something greater than ourselves. This is the mystery of life made simple. We all have a song to sing, a story to tell, a higher purpose to map out. Dunmore East is the gateway to all that matters.

    Peace of the ebbing tide to you,
    Peace of the finest ground to you,
    Peace of the gently setting sun to you,
    Peace of the smiling, rising moon to you.
    Peace of the night sky to you,
    Peace of the morning’s hope to you.
    The peace of all peace be to you,
    This day, this night, and evermore.
    (Gaelic traditional – Peace Prayer)

    We are rolling out our Camino Day in Dunmore East over the summer months for groups of 8 or more at €100 per person, to include transfer from the carpark in Dunmore East to our starting point at Ballymacaw Cove, fresh fish and chips from ‘East Pier’ Dunmore East, boat trip with refreshments, and mindful moments led by Phil and Elaine. You gather the group and leave the rest to us. Feel free to contact us directly by email to check available dates for our Camino Day in Dunmore East on info@waterfordcamino.com

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    Our Camino of Hope – to the sea and back

    We had been tracking the weather all week. We knew on this day of all days we needed the sun to shine. We had invited Ukrainians living in Waterford to join us in the seaside village of Ardmore for a special ‘Camino of Hope’ in the steps of St Declan who walked this very cliff path some 1,500 years ago. 10am and the sun breaks out on cue as we gathered by the sea. Buses and cars arrived from Lismore, Cappoquin, Dungarvan and Waterford city as 125 Ukrainians of all ages descended on this beautiful outpost not quite sure what to expect from the day ahead. Gentle smiles radiated from trusting faces. Waves rolled to shore as if to assure us that all would be well.

    Ardmore on a sunny morning is an amphitheatre of beauty. The receding tide left space for all to gather on the beach. We lingered awhile listening to the ebb and flow of the tide as footprints dissolved with quiet abandon into to the strands of time from whence they came. Children played as mothers stared out beyond the horizon to somewhere only they knew. Out at sea, the local fisherman and his dog checked in on the lobster pots as we watched on from the shore. So many solitary lives gathered on a faraway beach, suspended in one timeless moment, free from the noise and confusion they had left behind.

    We’ve walked this same path with many over the years. This day lingered that bit longer into the night. There was something about these people. They laughed, they chatted, they sang, they joked… not in denial of all that is happening in their homeland but in the unspoken belief that one day they would return home again. Their hope is of a kind you cannot crush. You can see it in their eyes. Their focus is on their children, on giving them every chance – on helping them to keep their dreams alive no matter what. They’ve distilled life down to the essence. Family matters, people matter – being there for others matters.

    The 6 hours we had together passed so quickly. None of us were in a rush for this Camino to end. We navigated our way from beach to cliff path by the Round Tower on our looped walk right back to where we started. Our team of volunteers made sure we all arrived back safely. Jeannie, our service dog, was the star attraction. She led the way. I had planned a few reflective ‘compass points’ but soon abandoned notes and went with the flow of all that was happening around me. It’s the unscripted moments you could never plan for that made the day so memorable. Just a few thoughts that struck me on my way home…

    Every person needs to take one day away, a day in which one consciously separates the past from the future. Each person deserves a day away in which no problems are confronted, no solutions searched for. Take that looped walk along the shoreline wherever it may be. Here by the water’s edge, you connect to stillness, to peace.

    A visit to the dimmed enchantment of an old monastic ruins on a hill has the power to draw us deeper into the vast expanse of mystery that surrounds us. The spirit of Declan is never too far away. It was to this hermitage above the bay he moved to find solace in his latter days. Listen carefully and you hear the chimed bells of ancient times by the lonely cell above the sea. There is healing in the waters for all who still seek. No matter how small or insignificant we may appear each one of us is part of something greater than ourselves. This is the mystery of life made simple. Pick up a stone as we did. Make it your wish then cast it to the sea. The ebb and flow of the sea bears witness to the rhythm of the universe. It pays to trust the life force that makes all this possible.

    In difficult times, never give up. There are moments in life when the elements turn against you in ways you could have never foreseen. Out of nowhere, a deluge descends leaving you exposed to the ravages of the elements. It can be a scary place to be. We can stumble along the way, we make mistakes, we overrule our better judgement, we invest our energy in people who are nowhere to be seen when we need them most. We become participants in a drama that takes on a life of its own.

    It’s then you have to see your own value. Keep that spark lit especially when you are tested most. There is a part of you that no one can take from you. Honour that voice within. Allow it to shape the course of what is to come. No less than the trees and the stars, you have a right to be here. Do not allow the tough times crush you. Shape your destiny as only you can. Starting today, learn more, laugh more and do what you truly love to do. Do not be denied your destiny. For what lies behind you and what lies in front of you matters little when compared to what lies in you.

    Choose the path you follow with care. Give the main aim of your life over to whatever it is that helps you to tap into your highest potential, giving of yourself to others and making a difference by living for something more important than yourself. Success is fine but significance is the real name of the game. Ultimately, you and you alone can shape the course of what is to come. Real happiness is not earned cheaply. It comes from giving of yourself to others not for reward but in the knowledge that kindness is everything in life. It is all that matters.

    Strive to be the best version of you, complete with all your strengths and limitations. For always there will be greater and lesser persons than yourself. The peace we seek along the way doesn’t come from superiority and might. It flows from the deepest, most vulnerable part of our being, that unmistakable core within that makes us unique. So do not be denied your rightful place in the universe. Stay true to you no matter what the world might tell you. Remember the purpose of life is a life of purpose. Invest your energy wisely lest this time pass you by…

    When all the walking was done, we enjoyed our lunch by the beach from where we started. It was a case of the loaves and the fishes only this time round the sandwiches and the goujons. The Ukrainian cakes prepared by the Waterford contingent went down a treat. Miraculously, there was enough for everyone. Swallows passed in telepathic streams through crimson rays as if to pay homage to the unbroken spirit of those below. The universe reaches out in ways we least expect. Our ‘Camino of Hope’ had come full circle.

    We were humbled to spend time with people we’ve come to know as friends. Their appreciation for all who had made the day possible was of a kind that I have rarely seen before. They thanked us with their smiles, with their hugs and with the warmth of their goodbyes. We knew we would meet again. Many spoke of the peace they felt along the way – a little respite on a difficult road. These people have known journeys in recent times we can only imagine. Our paths crossed and we are the better for it.

    It’s the circle of life and it moves us all
    Through despair and hope, through faith and love
    Til we find our place on the path unwinding
    In the circle, the circle of life.

    ***Special thanks to Catherine Power and Waterford Area Partnership for their help in funding our ‘Camino of Hope’ and to Mary Kearney of Waterford County Council for helping us to rally so many to share the path with us.

    Dr Phil and Elaine are looking forward to rolling out our Celtic Ways Series in 2023 aimed at connecting iconic pilgrim walks and trails in Southern Ireland with the Way of St David along the Welsh coastline. Our May, June and September St Declan’s Way are now fully booked with places available for July (16th to 21st) and August (20th to 25th). Our next St David’s Way is in September (25th to 29th). Our Camino tour offerings include coach transfers, ferry crossing, accommodation, guest guides, packed lunches, evening meals, pilgrim passports, memorable cultural experiences. We tailor everything to suit you. For further information, check out www.waterfordcamino.com or email Phil and Elaine directly on info@waterfordcamino.com

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    A chance encounter with a gentle prophet

    It’s the unscripted encounters we never see coming that can inspire us on our journey. One brief moment in the vast expanse of time is all it takes to elevate us to a space we may not have known before. We can never quite see what awaits around each new bend until we make the turn. Celestial light rises through broken rays along a shaded path. Faint strains descend from afar as if to guide us on our way. Sometimes we just need that gentle nudge to where we need to be on the Camino of life. We cannot always do it on our own.

    The hermit Pelayo could see the magic in the ordinary as he took those first steps towards the burial place of St. James over 1,000 years ago. Just one solitary man drawn to a holy shrine that awaited his discovery. Telepathic waves of light and sound pierced through veiled skies to lead him to the sacred vault. And so began the first pilgrim journey to Santiago. Visionaries, prophets, poets and hermits alike, speak of this same mystical life force there to guide us all on our way. Stillness is the gateway to this deeper realm. The key we need to enter lies within.

    The pathway we are destined for is shaped as we walk. The pace we move at can often leave us with little time to pause, breathe and recalibrate. And so the patterns we slip into as we pursue our elusive goals soon take hold and we can easily lose sight of the small things that make life worth living. The people by our side often see it before we do. Sometimes, the universe lets us know that there’s more to our journey than the narrowed spheres we walk through. Unexpected encounters of a loving kind have the power to lead us to a new place. It is then we solitary pilgrims realise we are not alone.

    Picture the scene; Elaine and I waiting in the car outside the Arrivals Terminal in Dublin Airport to collect the guest speaker for a pilgrim tourism gathering in Enniscorthy. Our plan was to leave the airport by 9.30pm and have him nicely ensconced in the Riverside Park Hotel just after 11pm in time for a good night’s sleep before his keynote address at the ‘Symposium’ to launch the Wexford-Pembrokeshire Pilgrim Way the next morning. Our mystery guest, known to us as Satish, emailed to say his flight from Bristol was delayed. We braced ourselves for the wait on this cold, frosty evening happy to rest and chat after a busy week. The hours ticked by with interminable ease. We’d no choice but to sit still and wait. 1.15am the plane lands.

    Satish was not as young as we expected. He smiled as he made his way into Arrivals; this small, diminutive figure whose steady steps spoke of a man who knew how to navigate his way in the world. Just himself, a folder and a small bag. This 86 year old had learned to travel light. We made our way to Enniscorthy captivated as much by his presence as by his story. The journey down the N11 was punctuated by tales from exotic lands until his eyes grew weary and he nodded off to sleep. We knew we were the privileged ones. This man had a mystique and kindness that lingered long into the night. He was refreshed and raring to go when we met him the next morning. We’d soon discover this resilience had been years in the making.

    Peace-pilgrim, life-long activist and former monk, Satish Kumar has been inspiring global change for over 50 years. Aged 9, Satish renounced the world and became a wandering Jain monk. Inspired by Gandhi, he decided at 18 that he could achieve more back in the world, campaigning to turn Gandhi’s vision of a peaceful future into reality. Satish soon discovered that happiness is possible only when we are kind to others and contented within. The force and the strength for peace will come from people. And that will happen when people start to realize that all the diversity and differences we see of nationalities, of religions, of cultures, of languages, are all beautiful diversities, for they are only on the surface. And deep down we share the same humanity, the global humanity.

    In his early 20s, Satish was inspired by the British peace activist, Bertrand Russell, who was arrested aged 89 at an anti-nuclear demonstration. This prompted Satish’s peace pilgrimage from India to Moscow, London, Paris, and America. Walking with no money and depending on the kindness and hospitality of strangers, Satish delivered a humble packet of ‘peace tea’ to the leaders of the four capitals of the nuclear world. Now in his 80s, he has devoted his life to campaigning for ecological regeneration, social justice, and spiritual fulfilment. 8 thousand miles over 2.5 years… this is a man with a story to tell. He spoke with such nonchalant ease, you knew his story and his message were one. I’ve rarely seen anyone command the room so effortlessly. He stirred something in us all!

    Satish found his higher purpose from an early age. His simple song urges us to find ours. His gentle steps reflect his reverence for the land beneath his feet. This kind, humble man has a strength of conviction that belies his placid demeanour. His simple, unadorned truth ripples outwards from a deep place. Something intangible hovered in the room, a fleeting yet timeless brush with the divine, as his message of love was laid bare before our eyes. The prophet spoke in quiet hushed tones and led us to a new place. I took a few notes from my time with Satish, merging my own insights with his, to guide me on my journey. Deep down, Elaine and I both knew his wisdom would stay with us long after we parted at the airport the next day…

    Do not rush the journey. Make time for the mystery and the magic in all you pass along the way.

    Sometimes I come across a tree which seems like Buddha or Jesus: loving, compassionate, still, unambitious, enlightened, in eternal meditation, giving pleasure to a pilgrim, shade to a cow, berries to a bird, beauty to its surroundings, health to its neighbours, branches for the fire, leaves for the soil, asking nothing in return, in total harmony with the wind and the rain. How much can I learn from a tree? The tree is my church, the tree is my temple, the tree is my mantra, the tree is my poem and my prayer.

    In a world that moves at pace, dare to find your own rhythm. Just be you.

    Modern life can draw us away from our better selves. A conveyor belt of distractions pass before our eyes daily to entice us beyond all that really matters; iPhone, laptops, Netflix, PlayStation… whilst they can be good in themselves, if they take a hold we lose our grip on our own lives. We end up cloning into different versions of each other. Evolution favours diversity. Dare to be yourself and take a path few have chosen. Here, beyond the glare of the passer by, you will find happiness. “Pursuit of happiness” implies that we’re running after happiness and happiness is running away from us. Happiness is not out there, it is within us. Move beyond where the world leads and you will find a peace that gives life its meaning.

    Be slow to impose your own expectations on others. Give them the space to map their own course.

    Your children are not your children. They are lives longing for itself. They come here with their own destiny. Give them your love. They will find their own way.

    Never stop believing in yourself no matter what the world may tell you. Any mistakes you have made, learn from them and hand them back to the universe with love. Find the character to rise again.

    We all make mistakes. We all fall in life. The key is to summons as much energy as possible to pick ourselves up. Channel your pain to help others carry theirs. Rise above the ridicule of those who judge you from the wings without ever knowing your truth. Your slip ups do not define you. They’re the stepping stone to you finding your place in the universe. To be a pilgrim drop your expectations. Walk humbly with your God. Your experience of pain and persecution can open your pores to the pain of others. When you give in service to others, you walk to a new beat.

    Make time to connect to your inner world. Here you’ll find the creative spark that changes everything.

    We human beings are spiritual beings. We have soul. We have spirit. We have mind. We have consciousness. We want fulfilment, we want happiness, we want satisfaction, we want joy. We want imagination. We want art, culture, music. Quality and perfection are achieved with time. You do not create a perfect painting or a perfect poem by hurrying. Time is always coming.

    Satish. Thank you for the gift of your wisdom which you carry with such courage and dignity. You blaze a trail for us to follow. You have reminded us that nothing really ever happens by chance. Your energy inspires us to find ours. Farewell fellow traveller until we meet again.

    Dr Phil and Elaine are looking forward to rolling out our Celtic Ways Series in 2023 aimed at connecting iconic pilgrim walks and trails in Southern Ireland with the Way of St. David along the Welsh coastline. Our Camino tour offerings are inclusive of coach transfers, ferry crossing, accommodation, guest guides, packed lunches, evening meals, pilgrim passports, memorable cultural experiences. We tailor everything to suit you. For further information, check out www.waterfordcamino.com or email Phil and Elaine directly on info@waterfordcamino.com

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    Trails of the Vales – from then to Now!

    It’s not always easy to stay the course when the elements turn. The shelter we seek lies camouflaged beneath the foliage of an unforgiving world. The wind picks up as if to forewarn us of what is coming our way. There can be nowhere to hide when the storm descends. We stand and stare, as if paralysed by fear, feeling the elemental fury of it all. The path, once clear and inviting, now becomes obscure. Time stands still as we wait for the darkened veil to life. Soon, a strange stillness descends. Mystical rays rise from the shadows to light the way for the solitary pilgrims below.

    I’ll be honest with you, the odyssey we’ve been on with our Waterford Camino Tours has challenged us at times. There have been days when it seemed like the elements have conspired against us; others when we feel the wind at our back. We’ve all been there. It’s in those very times when we are tested most that we come face to face with the truth about ourselves. We learn what we’re made of. We soon discover reserves of strength we never knew we had. We find what it takes to make our way home.

    No matter where we travel in life, we cannot do it alone. True friends have a value beyond what the world can measure. Those who stay the course with you are of a unique kind. Some will lift you up when your energies begin to wane, some will drop you with merciless abandon when they decide you’ve nothing left to give. You can build an empire around decent people.

    Our tours depend on our team who help make the magic happen; Brendan on our boat trips around the Bay in Dunmore East, John who sorts all our coach transfers along St Declan’s Way, Conor who walks the path with us every step of the way, Graham who makes sure we want for nothing when we visit Wales… the common denominator; just sound people who live by the premise that if you can be anything at all in life, just be kind.

    Under our Celtic Ways Ireland Series, we’re rolling out a Celtic corridor of sorts that will connect iconic trails in Ireland’s South East with hidden gems across the Munster Vales and even along the Western Coastline of Wales. We’ve just returned from a ‘reci’ mission in the Munster Vales and are now crafting a unique #trailsofthevales experience that weaves magical outdoor trails and adventures into the stories and the culture of the places we pass along the way. Right now we’re pooling our creative energies into creating a plethora of tour offerings from Wicklow to Wexford to Waterford and on across the Munster Vales that will have domestic and international appeal. Step by step, we’re getting there!

    The Munster Vales is an inland tourism destination in the heart of Munster, of domestic and international significance incorporating the Comeragh, Knockmealdown, Galtee, Ballyhoura and Nagles mountain ranges. The purpose of Munster Vales is to promote the geographical area as a unique brand, linking the counties of Waterford, Tipperary, Cork and Limerick and everything in between. The stunning landscape in the farming heartland of Ireland will take your breath away from the depths of the valleys to the tops of the mountains.

    #trailsofthevales opens up a world you may not have known before; mystical landscapes, delightful towns and villages, thrilling cycling in Ballyhoura, or restful strolls along the meandering River Suir. Here pilgrim paths and heritage towns are the backdrop to rolling mountains which are brought to life through tracks and trails and engaging local folklore. Over the few days, you come to immerse yourself almost unknowingly in 5,000 years of history and culture and delve into the soul of a land and its people that has shaped us all. It pays to come off the familiar pathways and discover something new. Here’s a snapshot of what those who join us in the Munster Vales can expect…

    Doneraile in North Cork is a hidden gem that is slowly finding its own unique place on the tourism landscape. Your trail through the gardens and around the park invites you to go deeper into the story of this place and its people. Here, on the outer frontiers of North Cork, you learn to slow the pulse right down and simply soak in the serenity and the calm. Doneraile leads you into a space that remains untouched by time.

    (Munster Vales image)

    Doneraile Park comprises approximately 166 hectares and is an outstanding example of an 18th century landscaped park in the ‘Capability Brown’ style. Mature groves of deciduous trees, several restored water features and a number of deer herds can be viewed along the many pathways within the Park. Standing proudly on Doneraile Main Street is a beautifully restored three-story Victorian building that has been there since the 1880s. It’s good to unwind here after the walking is done. We always try to mix the active with the restful. It’s all about balance.

    Café Townhouse is pure luxury, with a relaxing feel. This Café exudes class. You’re drawn in by the warmth of the fireplace, the genuine welcome to match the quality of service, the stunning decor with its ebullient colour – the equilibrium between old and new. You are made feel at home from the moment you step foot inside the door. The food is so tasty. It’s the perfect ‘still zone’ from the world you have left behind.

    If you would like to get a real feel for an Irish woodland and riverbank with at least forty shades of green then the Ballyhoura Mountain Loop is the perfect solution. The Keale River is a level walk of 7km fenced from start to finish with many little bridges in between and is followed by the 6km Molanna Loop. The river’s flow sets the tone for the day. It is peaceful and quiet, with very active wildlife such as otters, dippers, kingfishers, Herons and squirrels. You will also come across one of the last indigenous oak tree woodlands left in Ireland with many anemone, bluebells or mushrooms depending on the time of year. There’s a strange kind of harmony in places like this. It echoes deep long after the walking is over.

    Lough Gur is an ancient place, a place where the past remains present and where the unlikely suddenly seems possible. There is a deep peace to be found at Lough Gur. It is a calm place, oftentimes shrouded in a comforting and companionable silence. It pays to rest awhile by the water’s edge and feel the pulse of the universe as it opens up before you.

    (Munster Vales image)

    Lough Gur is at the heart of one of Ireland’s most complex archaeological landscapes. The history of Ireland has happened along the shores of Lough Gur and the lakeside is dotted with castles, ringforts, standing stones, wedge tombs and the iconic Grange Stone Circle, the largest of its kind in Ireland whose great megaliths have stood as silent sentinels over the landscape here for almost 5,000 years. Something drew those early farmers here, all those millennia ago, and that same force continues to draw people here today.

    The 8km King’s Loop Walk brings you back in time to view this home of the King’s from a whole new vantage point. The trail follows a newly created pathway off the Golden Road before leading you along a woodland path and eventually arriving at the foot of the Rock of Cashel. Though a newly created walkway, it invites you to go deeper into the story and the beauty of this town synonymous with the early Kings of Ireland.

    (Munster Vales image)

    Along the way, we pass the ruins of an old monastic abbey. Today it lies, shaded in antiquity, as if to nod solemnly to its sacred past. Hore Abbey (also Hoare Abbey, sometimes known as St.Mary’s) is a ruined Cistercian monastery near the Rock of Cashel. ‘Hore’ is thought to derive from ‘iubhair’ – yew tree. The former Benedictine abbey at Hore was given to the Cistercians by Archbishop David MacCearbhaill (in 1270), who later entered the monastery. He endowed the Abbey generously with land, mills and other benefices previously belonging to the town.

    As our 8km loop draws to a close, we arrive at the foot of the Rock of Cashel. We become today’s travellers in a timeless odyssey that dates back many centuries. The Rock of Cashel was held by the kings of Munster for generations until Brian Boru’s brother Mahon took the throne of Cashel in 963 and when Brian crowned himself King of Munster the ceremony told place at the Rock of Cashel.

    The Rock of Cashel is reputed to be the site of the baptism of King Aengus of Munster by Saint Patrick in 432. Aengus became Ireland’s first Christian king. It was at this time that St Patrick met Declan of Ardmore and the return journey of Declan forms the route of the St Declan’s Way Camino.

    It was brutally sacked by English Parliamentarian troops which were part of the Cromwellian forces in 1647 which led to a massacre of over 1000 people and extensive looting. Whatever wasn’t stolen was destroyed or defaced and the town of Cashel was torched by the departing soldiers. Cashel is deserving of its status as one of Ireland’s most hallowed places.

    (Munster Vales image)

    We’re excited to add our #trailsofthevales to our Celtic Ways Ireland Series. We had never visited Doneraile, Ballyhoura or Lough Gur until now. Our few days across the Munster Vales have convinced us we’re on the right track. The magic of Camino lies in the discovery of new spaces. Here, somewhere beyond our normal frontiers, we leave our footprint on the land for those yet to walk this way… each a stepping stone to a world we cannot leave behind.

    Dr Phil and Elaine are looking forward to rolling out our Celtic Ways Series in 2023. Our ‘Trails of the Vales’ includes 2 nights dinner, bed and breakfast in Deebert House Hotel, Kilmallock, overnight and Gala Dinner in Baileys Hotel Cashel, coach transfers, packed lunches and guest guides. For further information check out www.waterfordcamino.com or email Phil and Elaine directly on info@waterfordcamino.com

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    Two pathways to one sea, the Wexford-Pembrokeshire Pilgrim Way

    We shall not cease from exploration
    and at the end of our exploring
    will be to arrive where we started
    and know that place for the first time.
    (T.S. Eliot)

    In a beautiful twist of fate, our latest Camino offering leads me right back to where I started. Wexford has always felt like home for me having grown up over the family business, the ‘64’, on the Main Street in Gorey. The Camino of life so often brings us the circuitous route home. So much has happened since I last walked this way… so much is yet to come!

    This year marks the launch of The Wexford-Pembrokeshire Pilgrim Way as the heave towards mindful walks in the great outdoors gathers momentum. This trail offers two distinct yet equally magical pathways either side of the Irish Sea that connects Ferns in Wexford with St. David’s on the western coastline of Pembrokeshire in Wales. It’s amazing to think that places like Oulart, Boolavogue, Ferrycarrig, Forth Mountain – iconic places seeped in history in this oft’ hidden corner of Ireland – will soon find their rightful place in the Irish tourism landscape. Something tells me Wexford will not disappoint!

    Forth Mountain, Co. Wexford

    There’s a curious shift happening in the tourism arena. More and more visitors are looking for something a little more ‘immersive’ from their holiday on these shores, an adventure of sorts that draws them deeper into the stories and the culture of the places they pass along the way and connects them to wild therapeutic qualities of the natural world – something this unheralded stretch of Ireland and Wales offers in abundance. The Wexford-Pembrokeshire Pilgrim Way has always been here… only now the way is being cleared for a whole new generation to leave their footprint in the land.

    Walking ancient pilgrim paths is fast becoming one of the tourism phenomena of the modern age. Each new trail becomes a voyage of discovery, each seeped in story and beauty, each leading us beyond the distant din of the world we have left behind. The number of people completing the Camino of St. James has risen from fewer than 500 back in 1984 to 350,000 in 2019, with the headcount this year expected to reach almost half a million. Until recently, however, almost none of these 21st-century pilgrims would have imagined Wales or Ireland as an alternative to Spain for contemplative walking.

    Our Lady’s Island Peninsula, Co. Wexford

    The Wexford-Pembrokeshire Pilgrim Way is a transnational pilgrim path connected with a ferry crossing between the two countries and a 140km walking route. Wales and Ireland have been traditionally linked by Celtic culture and history as Irish monk St. Aidan spent much of his youth in Wales as a pupil of St. David. The walking route will draw on the meaningful history between the two saints by mirroring the journey taken by St. Aidan when he travelled to meet his mentor. Unearthing this pilgrim path will be the principal legacy of the EU-Funded Ancient Connections Project which has been developed under a partnership between Wexford and Pembrokeshire County Councils and the British Pilgrimage Trust.

    From cove to cove along St. David’s Way

    Renowned Pilgrim Travel Writer John G. O’Dwyer reminds us that “the Celtic islands of Northern Europe have a dense network of mystical paths and a vibrant pilgrim tradition, with most of these routes long predating the Camino. Dormant for centuries, these paths are now experiencing a dramatic revival…

    Celebrating the ancient Celtic links between Ireland and Wales, the Wexford-Pembrokeshire Pilgrim Way connects the early Christian monastic site at Ferns, County Wexford, with St. David’s City in Wales. Taking an average of nine days to walk, the path consists of five stages in Wexford and four stages in Pembrokeshire, with an Irish Sea crossing between. Expected to draw tourism outside the main hospitality centres of Ireland and Wales, the new route is projected to attract at least 4,000 pilgrim walkers within five years…

    The revived path is based on a robust tradition which tells of the Irish-born St. Aidan journeying across the Irish Sea to study under St. David, patron saint of Wales. Aidan was gifted honeybees by David on his return to Ireland. These then thrived within the famous monastery he founded at Ferns, which became renowned for the quality of its honey. A special bond was thus created between two holy men and two Celtic lands, with David later journeying to Wexford and leaving his mark on the landscape in the form of a much-venerated holy well at Oylgate.”

    St. David’s Well, Oylgate, Co. Wexford

    At the recent launch in Ferns, County Wexford, the route of the new path was introduced before a large attendance by Iain Tweedale, the former head of online broadcasting at BBC Wales and by Rom Bates, pilgrim officer for Wexford. Mr Tweedale has in recent years dedicated himself to working with Journeying – an organisation that promotes the benefits of pilgrim walking on the ancient paths of Britain and Ireland. “We’re reviving a pilgrimage route that goes from Ferns in County Wexford, which is the ancient capital of Ireland’s Southeast, to Rosslare. The route will pass deeply historic and storied places such as Oulart, Oylgate, Ferrycarrig, and Our Lady’s Island”, said Mr Tweedale.

    “People can then jump on the ferry at Rosslare and cross over to Fishguard, where they will walk down to St. Davids on a wonderful coastal path. We are confident the transnational aspect of the walk will prove attractive and that the extra visitors will boost local businesses during quieter times of the year. There is a five-year plan drawn up with Wexford County Council to make this a significant tourism project for Southeast. In five years we expect to have an annual 4,000-5,000 on the path”, he added.

    St. David’s Way, Pembrokeshire

    Commenting on the new path, Guy Hayward, Chairman of the British Pilgrimage Trust and team leader of the implementation group said: “The entire team is so excited about this project, creating an old route as new with all the infrastructure that a modern pilgrim needs. Although we are only in the early stage of the path development, I can already tell that we are going to create something very beautiful together that bridges both sides of the Celtic Sea, and something which so many will enjoy and find meaning through for generations to come.”

    Wexford and Pembrokeshire have a world of wonder hidden in the land. The outdoors have their own peculiar magic… but it’s our shared Celtic story that adds a new layer of intrigue to this pilgrim path. This April we’ll be leading a group from Killarney along St. David’s Way. They walked St. Declan’s Way with us last year so it’ll be great to have them back again. A few weeks later we’ve a Canadian group joining us to walk St. Aidan’s Way on the Wexford side before continuing their holiday in Ireland. Some who walk St. Aidan’s Way one year may then come back to do St. David’s the next. It pays to listen… then craft that special Camino to match what the traveller is looking for. We have built our business on this principle. Every person matters – every tour unique!

    Strumble Head Lighthouse, Pembrokeshire
    (Photo courtesy of Celtic Routes)

    Different pathways lead to the same ocean. As the sun sets along the Welsh coastline, sporadic beacons rise from the lighthouse at Strumble Head. Each ray shoots in mesmeric waves across darkening skies as if to light the way for the solitary traveller below. In the stillness we feel a deep connection to something deeper in ourselves and in our universe. Rivers on either side flow into the one vast expanse of ocean in telepathic symmetry with the life force that makes all this possible. The hum of ancient waters is never too far away offering the promise of what is yet to come. It is then the path we’re destined for becomes that one step closer.

    To travel a circle is to journey over the same ground time and time again.
    To travel a circle wisely is to journey over the same ground for the first time.
    In this way, the ordinary becomes extraordinary
    and the circle, the path to where you wish to be.
    And when you notice at last that the path has circled back into itself,
    you realise that where you wish to be is where you have already been…
    and always were.
    (Neale Walsch)

    Our team of guides

    Dr Phil and Elaine are looking forward to rolling out our Celtic Ways Series in 2023 aimed at connecting iconic pilgrim walks in South East Ireland with the Way of St. David along the Welsh coastline. Our Camino tour offerings are inclusive of coach transfers, ferry crossing, accommodation, guest guides, packed lunches, evening meals, pilgrim passports, memorable cultural experiences… For further information, check out waterfordcamino.com/celtic-roots-series/ or email Phil and Elaine directly on info@waterfordcamino.com

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    Silent Night – the magic and the meaning

    Christmas time has its own magical allure. After a strange few years, it’s great to have this season back in all its wonder. The lights, the gifts, the music, the myriad of sporting spectacles beamed live to our sitting rooms, the gatherings among family and friends, the scent of the turkey roasting in the oven, the frenzied shopping, the carnival atmosphere in town; all combine to create something uniquely festive that eases us almost unknowingly through the dreariness of the Irish winter. Now, as the year rolls to a close, a faint glow makes its presence felt. The star still shines, oft’ hidden and unnoticed, to light the way.

    ‘Silent Night’ carries us back to where it all began. The poignant lilt of harmonies along with unadorned lyrics draw us deeper into the wonder of the Christmas story. This age-old carol has the power to stop us in our tracks. I’ve seen an elderly woman in a coma in a nursing home momentarily re-awaken and join us in song, noticed hardened men drawn to a space they thought they had left behind, viewed children by the crib transported on a musical odyssey back to the manger in Bethlehem, watched a homeless woman cradle the infant child while the warm, lingering lyrics from carol singers close by took on a meaning only she knew.

    Christmas without ‘Silent Night’ would feel incomplete. Over the past 40 years, it has been the one constant for me in the build up to Christmas. From my Folk Group days in Gorey to the Folk Choir in the Sacred Heart Church, Waterford back in my teaching days, Christmas never passed without singing this beautifully simple carol. Over the years, I’ve had the privilege of leading Christmas Vigils with the homeless in Derry, Northern Ireland, with children in orphanages in Sri Lanka, with communities around Ireland from Christ Church in Dublin to the Edmund Rice Chapel in Waterford. This year, the Peace Choir will be joined by friends from Ukraine for a special Christmas Truce Vigil on the eve of Christmas Eve in Waterford. ‘Silent Night’ will ripple skywards in melodic waves of solidarity to far-off lands. Sometimes music speaks where words fail!

    The origin of this timeless carol is worth remembering. In 1818, a roving band of actors was performing in towns throughout the Austrian Alps. On December 23rd, they arrived at Oberndorf, a village near Salzburg, where they were to re-enact the story of Christ’s birth in the small Church of St. Nicholas. Given that the church organ was out of commission and would not be repaired before Christmas, the actors decided to present their version of the Christmas story in a private home.

    One of audience, assistant pastor Josef Mohr, was inspired to reflect anew on the meaning of Christmas. Instead of walking straight to his house that night, Mohr took a longer way home. His fateful Camino took him up over a hill overlooking the village. He stopped to survey the peaceful, snow-drenched citadel of light below. Revelling in the majestic silence of the wintry night, Mohr gazed down at the glowing Christmas card-like scene. Time past and present froze in creative fusion. He intuitively adapted a poem he had written years previously to the play he had just seen.

    Mohr enlisted the help of his friend, church organist Franz Xaver Gruber, to compose a musical setting for the poem that could sound well even without the church organ. Within hours they both sung ‘Stille Nacht’ at their Christmas Eve service before the small congregation in Oberndorf with the accompaniment of a guitar. It was beautifully understated, magical.

    Christmas 1914 on the battlefields of Messines brings us face to face with the power of this simple carol. Picture the scene. Young men and boys sunk in the blemished mud of Flemish and French trenches, ears reverberating to the terrifying sounds of shells exploding before them with a deafening defiance – scarcely imaginable to spectators from afar. Germans on one side; the French, British and Irish on the other. Between them, ‘no man’s land’ littered with the spoils of war, a sordid premonition of the fate in store for up to 13,000 soldiers a day.

    Yet, amidst the chaos, hope simmered fleetingly on the horizon. The German soldiers were sent Christmas trees from home and placed them above their trenches, numbing the oppressive doom that enveloped them. A strange confluence of dark and light rose from the shadowy mire. The luminous trail extended for miles, a seamless halo from afar that transfigured the wretched landscape. The soldiers were moved. They remembered their loved ones back home.

    They momentarily forgot where they were. And then the German tenor sang ‘Stille Nacht’. Soldiers from both sides fearlessly opted to leave the relative sanctuary of the trenches and embraced their ‘foe’ as their own. Stories were told, cigarettes smoked, brandy consumed, even a football match was played. Once hostile voices merged as one in common humanity.

    A young British soldier, Albert Moren, near La Chapelle D’Armentieres, France, recalled: “It was a beautiful moonlit night, frost on the ground, white almost everywhere; and… there was a lot of commotion in the German trenches and then there were those lights – I don’t know what they were. And then they sang ‘Stille Nacht’ – ‘Silent Night’. I shall never forget it. It was one of the highlights of my life.”

    Against the bleakest of backdrops, a spark was lit and the shroud lifted. Humanity had become participants in the nativity story 1914 years on revealing the face of the infant Jesus to the world. Their song echoes in the stillness of the night. Hidden in the silhouette, their hushed murmurings can still be heard. Echoes from afar whisper softly through veiled skies. The men of 1914 did not just remember the first Christmas; they lived out its meaning.

    I was privileged to travel to Messines in December 2014 with The Peace Choir to pay homage in song to the young men of the Christmas Truce on the 100th anniversary. It was deeply humbling to see the graves of two Irishmen side by side in one of the tiny cemeteries scattered across the furrowed fields. On one headstone: 24th of December 1914, Private Delaney; on the other, 29th of December 1914, Private Murphy. In between… the Christmas Truce. Something timeless spilled out onto the battlefield that silent night that must never be forgotten. Sleep in heavenly peace.

    One person made a deep impression on all of us privileged to meet her. Marie-Therese’s home overlooks the site of the Christmas Truce and for the previous 80 plus years of her life has welcomed visitors with tea and cakes as a token of her appreciation of the journeys they had made. She knew the significance of all that had happened on this hallowed land not too many years before she was born and understood the need to remember. Marie-Therese beamed with delight when we sang ‘Danny Boy’ for her on a pathway alongside her home. Her smile touched us all. She radiated warmth of a precious kind. Their spirit lives on through her.

    At the end of our concert that evening, we chose to give our Waterford Crystal vase to Marie-Therese, and not to the local dignitaries, much to the delight of almost everyone in the audience. We could see in her beautiful simplicity, in her resilient smile, in her resolute kindness proof of the power of human goodness to triumph even in those very situations that threaten its existence. Then it is only kindness that makes sense anymore. Maybe, therein lies the message of Christmas. ‘Silent Night’ on the trenches…a lesson for us all!

    Phil and Elaine would like to wish you all a very happy and peaceful Christmas. The Peace Choir will lead the ‘Christmas Truce Vigil’ on December 23rd, 2022 in the Edmund Rice Chapel, Waterford from 8-9.30pm. All are welcome! We hope our paths cross with yours in the year ahead. For more information on our Celtic Ways Ireland tour offerings for 2023, check out www.waterfordcamino.com or email us directly on info@waterfordcamino.com